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It's hard to pull off crumbly cool decor and a wine-only menu, but the young couple that owns and runs Pali Village Café have done it well. Peeling walls, old fans, foldable, rusty steel chairs, empty cages and paper menus define one of the most popular new restaurants this side of the sealink.

Despite the super slow service and small portions that everyone loves to crib about, here, in the glassed-in courtyard space and along art deco balconies surrounded by green plants and quirky music, Bandra’s creative and Bollywood lot sip on melon Sula sangria and eat wafer-thin pizza and pannacotta to the soundtrack of Vicky Cristina Barcelona. Check your case of the blues in at the door.

Pali Village Café, next to Janata Bar and Restaurant, Pali Naka, Bandra (W); tel. +91 (0) 22 26050401

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samovar cafe

Kala Ghoda, Fort Mumbai, India

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eye lo descubrió en julio de 2011

Samovar Café and the Jehangir Art Gallery that houses it are both landmarks of the Mumbai creative scene.

For more than 40 years, the long, narrow café -- inspired by those on Paris's Left Bank -- has drawn artists (who have painted its walls and autographed its ceilings), writers (who spend hours here perfecting their columns), intellectuals (who argue with anyone who cares to listen) and students (who fill their bellies on Samovar's home-style food).

Indeed, nerds, artists and culture seekers flock here from far and wide to sip tea and eat kebab rolls, stuffed parathas (Indian bread filled with potatoes, radish, minced meat) and dahi vada (fried lentil balls soaked in yogurt). Samovar Café is as bohemian as Mumbai gets, and there’s great art in the surrounding galleries as well.

Samovar Café is iconic really, and one of the last outposts of Mumbai's creative old guard who are as cool as ever, but to whom modern day coffee chains are an affront to their moral and metaphysical fiber.

listas: ASIA, ASIA_india, aprender, beber, comer, contemplar, cultura museos arte, diseño

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britannia cafe

16 Sprott Rd. Mumbai, India

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eye lo descubrió en julio de 2011

Britannia Cafe is a crumbling testament to Mumbai's once-thriving Parsi café culture. As one of the few remaining restaurants of its kind, this popular spot draws loyal customers to its obscure location in the business district of Ballard Estate.

Britannia was founded by Rashid Kohinoor in 1923, the same year his son Boman, the current proprietor, was born. Read about their beautiful life story at the Irani Chai Mumbai blog. The restaurant’s most popular rice dish is made with Iranian berries and a secret ingredient passed on by Boman's wife to his younger son Romin.

From the looks of its peeling walls, chipped ceiling and old Polish furniture, the café hasn't changed much since then. But that doesn't seem to matter much to diners who dig in to Britannia's dhansak-rice (a stew of mutton and pulses), sali boti (mutton) or sali chicken cooked in a subtly sweet gravy sprinkled with crisp potato chips, and the signature dish, berry pulao.