samovar cafe

Samovar Café and the Jehangir Art Gallery that houses it are both landmarks of the Mumbai creative scene.

For more than 40 years, the long, narrow café -- inspired by those on Paris's Left Bank -- has drawn artists (who have painted its walls and autographed its ceilings), writers (who spend hours here perfecting their columns), intellectuals (who argue with anyone who cares to listen) and students (who fill their bellies on Samovar's home-style food).

Indeed, nerds, artists and culture seekers flock here from far and wide to sip tea and eat kebab rolls, stuffed parathas (Indian bread filled with potatoes, radish, minced meat) and dahi vada (fried lentil balls soaked in yogurt). Samovar Café is as bohemian as Mumbai gets, and there’s great art in the surrounding galleries as well.

Samovar Café is iconic really, and one of the last outposts of Mumbai's creative old guard who are as cool as ever, but to whom modern day coffee chains are an affront to their moral and metaphysical fiber.